Cabinet (Part 2) | Back to Intro | The Finished Product
I thought that the wiring would be a nightmare, but it was actually pretty easy.
This is the easiest part of all. If you buy computer case fans like I did, all you have to do is plug them into a matching power connector on the computer's power supply. Simple.
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One of the things that made it easy to wire the buttons was the fact that I used the Mot-Ion controller as opposed to a programmable interface board like the IPac. Because the Mot-Ion controller is made specifically for pinball cabinets, the outputs on the board are specifically labeled on the wiring diagram as to their function (left flipper, right flipper, start, exit, etc.). This makes it super-simple to determine which connector goes to what button.
You really should buy some quick disconnects--most arcade buttons use 1/4" connectors. You could solder every connection, but that's a waste of time. It also makes it more difficult to replace a button should you ever need to do so. Strip about a quarter-inch of insulation off the wire, slide the connector on, and crimp it in place. I used pliers to do this, but I recommend finding a decent crimper. Using pliers is a real hand-buster.
Beyond that, all you need to know is a little basic wiring. In my case, I simply looked at the way that the buttons were wired in one of my video games and emulated it. I drew up a diagram to make it easy for you. (Those of you with sharp eyes will see that I actually reversed the ground and live connections on my buttons. This is because my example control panel on NBA Jam was wired that way. It seems to work fine when wired backward. Just make sure that you're consistent on all of your buttons.)
Leaf switches work the same way, except they only have two connectors. I wired the ground to the outside connector closest to the inside of the cabinet and the live connection to the inside connector and it works fine. Just be consistent as to which connector you use as the ground if you have more than one leaf switch in the series.
The plunger is the easiest of the controls to wire--just plug the SATA cable into the end of the plunger and into the SATA jack on the Mot-Ion Board.
That's really all there is to it.
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I didn't want to have to reach inside the cabinet to switch the computer on--I wanted a power switch on the outside, preferably in the same location that you'd find a power switch on an actual pinball machine. I decided to use a simple, black arcade button for this purpose.
There is a connector on the motherboard of the computer that controls the on/off function. Actually, it's just two pins on a connector--a positive and a negative. If you are wiring directly to the motherboard, you'll want to build a connector that can plug into the motherboard.
If you have a case for your computer, however, you most likely already have the connector you need, wired to the on/off switch on the case. I simply cut and stripped these wires and spliced them together with two wires off of my arcade button (negative from the COM and positive from the NO) using wire nuts. It worked like a charm. To switch on the PC, all I have to do is reach under the cabinet and press the button.
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I had done some button wiring in the past (when I built my JAMMA multi-game control panel, but I had never wired lighted buttons prior to this project.
According to my online research, lighted buttons need +5 volt power to operate. A computer power supply has both +5 and +12 volt power output. I had plenty of free power connectors on my PC (even after connecting the fans) so I simply used one of them to power my 3 LED buttons and the Ball Launch button (which has a light bulb).
The power connector I used was a 4-pin connector with a +5v, a +12v, and 2 ground connections (same connector type that the fans use). The power supply manual has a pin-out of each connector so you can tell which color wire is which.
I went to Radio Shack and got a matching male connector and wiring harness (a hard drive power cable splitter--I wanted something that was pre-wired). On the splitter harness, I removed the wires for the +12 and the ground next to it. (It's probably best that you don't hack the harness on the power supply itself...) I stripped the +5 and ground on the splitter harness and I was ready to go.
I've made you another handy-dandy diagram that you can use as a guide. Basically, you just have to connect the positive and ground wires from the harness to the positive and negative terminals on the first lighted switch (these are separate connectors from the micro-switch button connections and the positive terminal is labeled with a "+"). Then, daisy-chain the positive and negative connections from one button to the next until they're all connected to the series.
Once again, use crimp-on quick disconnects to make your life easier. The LEDs and lights use a larger version than the buttons themselves--3/16".
It's worth noting that this wiring technique produces lighted buttons that are always on. If you want them to flash, you'll need an LED controller board like the LED-WIZ or the PacLED.
The lighted buttons look really cool...cool enough so that I might, someday, consider replacing some of the regular buttons with lighted ones.
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